Ra Côn Đảo viếng mộ chị Võ Thị Sáu

Con đường lát đá dẫn chúng tôi tới trước mộ người nữ liệt sĩ anh hùng đã thành huyền thoại: Võ Thị Sáu. Ai đó đã đến trước chúng tôi vì trên bàn thờ trước mộ đã bày đầy mâm quả cùng khói hương nghi ngút. Không khí thật linh thiêng mà vẫn thấy gần gũi ấm áp. Bấy lâu nay nghe mọi người truyền tụng, chị Sáu chết lúc còn quá trẻ nên thiêng lắm. Khách thập phương từ đất liền đổ ra đây dâng đồ cúng lên mộ chị để mà xin giàu sang, xin quyền cao chức trọng, có người còn xin cả lô đề, cả tình duyên…

Vợ chồng tôi đáp chuyến bay chiều của hãng hàng không Vietnam airline ra thăm Côn Đảo. Cho đến khi máy bay đã hạ cánh xuống sân bay, đã đặt chân trên đất Côn Sơn mà vẫn chưa tin mình lại có mặt trên hòn đảo lịch sử này.
Chiếc xe 12 chỗ bon bon trên con đường ven biển đưa chúng tôi về trung tâm huyện đảo cách sân bay Cỏ Ống chừng hơn mười cây số. Rất may cho chúng tôi dù đi du lịch cá nhân nhưng vẫn có hướng dẫn viên nhiệt tình giúp đỡ. Số là khi đang ở thành phố Hồ Chí Minh, tôi được anh bạn ở Quân đoàn 4 giới thiệu với Chung, người Hưng Nguyên (Nghệ An), cùng là đồng hương, đang công tác ở cảng Bến Đầm, Côn Đảo. Anh là cựu sĩ quan quân đội, từng tham gia chiến trường K năm năm, có mặt ở Côn Đảo gần ba mươi năm nay nên thông thuộc hết mọi ngõ ngách của xứ sở huyền thoại giữa đại dương mênh mông này. Anh là người xởi lởi, chu đáo, ham bạn bè. Mới gặp lần đầu mà cứ như đã quen biết nhau lâu rồi.
Tới thị trấn Côn Đảo vừa thu xếp chỗ nghỉ xong là Chung đã lên kế hoạch tham quan sao cho tiện lợi nhất. Anh bảo bây giờ hai bác cứ nghỉ ngơi, cơm nước đã, tối nay ta đi thăm mộ chị Sáu. Tôi ngạc nhiên hỏi sao lại đi ban đêm. Chung bảo thì các bác cứ đi rồi khắc biết.
Hai mươi hai giờ rưỡi, Chung dẫn chúng tôi ra nghĩa trang Hàng Dương, cách nhà chừng một cây số. Đã đọc, đã thấy trên phim ảnh về địa danh nổi tiếng này thế mà khi bước chân trên con đường dẫn vào nghĩa trang vẫn không khỏi bồi hồi, xúc động.  Những ngọn đèn cảm ứng trên các ngôi mộ tỏa ánh sáng xanh lung linh. Cả khu nghĩa trang như một thành phố thu nhỏ đang lên đèn.
Con đường lát đá dẫn chúng tôi tới trước mộ người nữ liệt sĩ anh hùng đã thành huyền thoại: Võ Thị Sáu. Ai đó đã đến trước chúng tôi vì trên bàn thờ trước mộ đã bày đầy mâm quả cùng khói hương nghi ngút. Không khí thật linh thiêng mà vẫn thấy gần gũi ấm áp. Bấy lâu nay nghe mọi người truyền tụng, chị Sáu chết lúc còn quá trẻ nên thiêng lắm. Khách thập phương từ đất liền đổ ra đây dâng đồ cúng lên mộ chị để mà xin giàu sang, xin quyền cao chức trọng, có người còn xin cả lô đề, cả tình duyên…
Người ta đang biến một nơi tôn nghiêm thành nơi đồng bóng? Có thể như thế lắm và trách nhiệm thuộc về chính quyền, nên tổ chức và định hướng để cho việc thăm viếng mộ anh hùng của người dân không mang yếu tố mê tín dị đoan. Ở góc độ tâm linh, tôi nghĩ đấy là một nét văn hóa truyền thống của dân tộc, nó thể hiện lòng ngưỡng mộ, tôn kính của nhân dân đối với người con gái đã hiến dâng tuổi thanh xuân của mình cho Tổ quốc. Chúng ta tự hào có Võ Thị Sáu thời nay cũng như trong quá khứ hào hùng ông cha đã tôn vinh Hai Bà Trưng, Bà Triệu cùng biết bao liệt nữ anh hùng khác.
Cho nên, ra Côn Đảo việc đầu tiên là đến nghĩa trang Hàng Dương, thắp nén nhang, cúi mình trước anh linh liệt sĩ. Tôi cũng cầu mong chị Sáu và các liệt sĩ phù hộ cho tôi, cho người thân sức khỏe, cuộc sống an lành và Đất Nước bình yên. Đó không phải là mê tín dị đoan, đó là lòng thành của hậu thế đối với cha anh, những người đã không tiếc máu xương của mình vì sự trường tồn của Đất Nước. Đó cũng là tâm nguyện của thế hệ trước luôn mong muốn điều tốt đẹp cho con cháu mai sau. Mọi người hành lễ trong im lặng, chân nhẹ bước khi đi cắm hương lên các ngôi mộ để linh hồn liệt sĩ yên nghỉ trong không khí linh thiêng ở nơi được coi là bàn thờ Tổ quốc.
Trước mộ anh hùng, trong làn khói hương nghi ngút, tâm hồn tôi xao động. Tôi nghĩ về quá khứ, về lịch sử, về những con người đã ngã xuống để cho tôi, cho bạn, cho cả dân tộc này hạnh phúc.
Đêm Hàng Dương trong vắt. Gió từ biển thổi vào mát rượi. Bước chân trên con đường trải nhựa phẳng lì giữa hai hàng ghế đá chạy dài như vô tận, tôi lại nghe vi vu âm thanh quen thuộc của gió của cây. Mà ở nơi linh thiêng này thì dường như mỗi sự vật, từ gốc cây, ngọn cỏ, hòn đá cho đến làn gió biển đều có linh hồn, đều là chứng nhân của lịch sử. Gió Hàng Dương vẫn thì thầm kể, chuyện một thời Đất Nước đau thương.
Côn Đảo, những ngày tháng Bảy

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