Rau muống và cà pháo-Tản văn của Nguyễn Thị Hương (Tp.Hồ Chí Minh)

Anh đi anh nhớ quê nhà
Nhớ canh rau muống nhớ cà dầm tương

Hẳn ai trong chúng ta cũng thuộc những câu ca dao trên với món ăn dân dã này. Gọi là món ăn dân dã nhưng tôi dám chắc là người ăn chay, người ăn mặn, người nghèo, người trong giới thượng lưu không ai quên được món ăn tuyệt diệu này.

Năm 1990, gia đình tôi ở Tiệp Khắc, lúc ấy Việt Nam còn nghèo lắm, người ta tìm mọi cách để ra đi đến một phương trời khác. Còn tôi, tôi đã có đủ mọi thứ ở quê người, vậy mà “nhớ canh rau muống, nhớ cà dầm tương” tôi đi ngược chiều, trở lại mảnh đất quê nghèo đói nhưng đầy kỷ niệm thân thương, với những món ăn đậm đà hồn Việt.

Những tưởng chỉ đến nước người mới nhớ rau muống và cà pháo đến tê tái như vậy. Ngờ đâu, hôm nay giữa cái nắng gay gắt của TPHCM, nhớ lạ lùng đến rau muống, cà của Hà Nội.

Tôi thích cách viết về ẩm thực của Vũ Bằng. Mỗi món ăn Hà Nội của ông đều được nâng lên đến những cảm xúc tuyệt đẹp của mối tình đang độ chín. Và tôi vẫn ngờ ngợ rằng, chắc bản thảo của ông bị mất mát ở đoạn nào, hoặc vì chiến tranh, hoặc vì những lý do nhậy cảm mà thiếu đi những trang viết về rau muống, cà, muối vừng, xôi.v.v… của Hà Nội.

Nếu nói rau muống và cà là sự kết hợp đẹp đẽ của một đôi uyên ương người Việt, thì rau muống luộc – cà dầm tương của Hà Nội chính là mối tình đẹp đẽ nhất. Từ độ thanh xuân cho đến khi kết thúc vẫn trọn vẹn sự thuỷ chung.

Này nhé, đĩa rau muống sơ mới luộc xanh mát mắt như cô gái đến tuổi dậy thì, trang phục của nàng là chiếc đĩa sứ trắng tinh (phải là đĩa sứ trắng nhé, mới thấy hết độ tinh khiết của nàng) sao mà hút hồn ta đến vậy. Chàng trai cà pháo, nhiều loại lắm, nhưng chỉ có cà pháo Hoàng Mai mới xứng với vẻ thanh tân của nàng. Cà Hoàng Mai vừa độ chín, giòn, bùi, ngọt… nguyên chất đúng theo kiểu muối của người Hà Nội nó buộc chân người ta làm sao?

Cà Hoàng Mai dày cùi, nhỏ quả, được phân biệt với cà vùng khác ở vẻ đẹp và độ ngon của nó. Cà phải được hái đúng độ, quả tươi cuống xanh nõn phủ một một lớp lông tơ mỏng mảnh, thân quả là những đường chỉ rất khéo léo chia đều quả cà thành múi nhỏ, đáy cà ánh lên một ánh vàng nhẹ, chính cái màu vàng này quyết định độ ngon của cà; đáy cà còn trắng thì là cà non, ăn không giòn và ngái; đáy vàng hẳn thì thật vô duyên, vô duyên đến mức đã đi vào câu ca dao: “Trạng chết Chúa cũng băng hà/ Dưa gang đỏ đít thì cà đỏ trôn”. Cái cô nàng rau muống thanh tân kia quyết phải kết duyên với chàng cà pháo điển trai, chứ lấy ông lão cà “đỏ trôn” thì tiếc lắm thay.

Bà nội trợ Hà Nội khéo léo đi chợ, chỉ chọn cà Hoàng Mai, đem về phơi heo héo rồi mới muối, một lượt cà, một lượt muối, chút xíu đường, mấy lát giềng, nén cà độ 2h cho ngấm rồi mới đổ nước sôi để nguội cho ngập cà, cà mới giòn ngon, không bị ủng và kháng đá.

Mối tình cà – rau muống mà thiếu tương thì kém phần thi vị. Người Hà Nội hay dùng tương Cự Đà và tương Bần, tương đã ngấu pha thêm chút đường và ớt. Ngày bố tôi còn sống, ông thường đùa rằng: “Mấy ông quan trên trời đi tuần mà ngửi thấy mùi tương của bà nội tôi pha thì thế nào cũng phải ghé xuống ăn rồi mới đi tiếp được”. Vâng, nói thế quả có ngoa ngôn, nhưng tương bà tôi làm khéo lắm, hồi bé nhìn những nong cơm nếp mốc xanh, mốc đỏ của bà tôi cứ sợ, nhưng lúc múc tương ra ăn thì quên hết cả sợ hãi. Bà tôi làm tương bằng gạo nếp, trong vườn nhà tôi lúc nào cũng phải có vài chum tương, tương bà tôi muối gối, bịt kín phơi mưa nắng đủ một năm mới cho mở ra ăn. Tôi tiếc là không học được cách làm tương của bà. Tương Cự Đà, tương Bần giờ người ta làm bằng ngô, tương chưa ngấu đã bán, ăn nó cứ chuồi chuội. Tôi bắt chước bà, mua tương về bịt kín một năm mới bỏ ra ăn, cũng ngon đáo để.

Vì cái tương Hà Nội bây giờ kém ngon thế nên người ta thay thế nước chấm rau bằng nước mắm. Nước mắm Phú Quốc hoặc Cát Hải pha với chanh ớt thật khéo cũng đưa giọng lắm.

Cái kết cho cuộc tình cà rau này không thể thiếu bát nước rau muống luộc dầm quả chua. Đầu hè thì luộc rau xong, ta cho lá me hoặc thanh trà, hoặc vắt chanh… kiểu chua nào cũng được. Nhưng đến tháng 6, khi vào mùa sấu thì không có thứ quả chua nào sánh được với sấu. Bát nước rau muống luộc dầm sấu, cho thêm vài hạt muối để nguội rồi cho vào tủ lạnh, thiết tưởng không có một loại nước giải khát nào sánh kịp.

Lại một mùa hè đang đến và sẽ đi, ước ao được về Hà Nội ăn rau muống và cà pháo.

Tháng 4 – 2014

Tác gải bài viết: Nguyễn Thị Hương

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