Gánh hàng trưa

Cuộc sống người Sài Gòn bận rộn quá, tấp nập quá, nhiều khi gặp mặt nhau cũng không thèm chào hỏi. Nó làm cho con người ta trở nên lạnh lùng, nếu không nói là vô cảm. Ít dần những cảnh họ ngồi lại với nhau để bàn chuyện nhân tình thế thái, có chăng là thanh toán tiền nhà, tiền hàng, tiền điện, tiền nước. Đối với trẻ em, ngoài chuyện học, chúng chỉ chơi những trò chơi mang niềm vui ảo, tôi không thấy chúng mồ hôi nhễ nhại vì trò năm mười, bắn bi, chia bồ đánh lộn… Nhưng nhờ những chén đậu hũ mà con người xích lại gần nhau hơn.

 

Đã lâu lắm rồi tôi không được nghe tiếng rao ngọt ngào cất lên giữa những buổi trưa oi ả nắng của cô gái bán đậu hũ. Sài Gòn có biết bao nhiêu tiếng rao, nào là bánh trái, đồ hàng bông, ve chai lông vịt, kể cả keo dính chuột, bấm lỗ tai… Vậy mà không thanh âm nào trong trẻo và có sức lay động lòng tôi như tiếng rao đậu hũ. Tôi không yêu cô gái ấy nhưng tôi yêu tiếng rao cất lên hàng ngày từ những con hẻm nhỏ, đều đặn, đẹp như cánh đồng lúa chín thơm. Hình ảnh và âm thanh này mới đẹp và cố hữu, nó như là một phần không thể thiếu trong tâm thức những ai từng gắn bó với mảnh đất Sài Gòn. Buổi trưa ở thành phố đôi khi yên ả đến buồn. Cuộc sống người Sài Gòn bận rộn quá, tấp nập quá, nhiều khi gặp mặt nhau cũng không thèm chào hỏi. Nó làm cho con người ta trở nên lạnh lùng, nếu không nói là vô cảm. Ít dần những cảnh họ ngồi lại với nhau để bàn chuyện nhân tình thế thái, có chăng là thanh toán tiền nhà, tiền hàng, tiền điện, tiền nước. Đối với trẻ em, ngoài chuyện học, chúng chỉ chơi những trò chơi mang niềm vui ảo, tôi không thấy chúng mồ hôi nhễ nhại vì trò năm mười, bắn bi, chia bồ đánh lộn… Nhưng nhờ những chén đậu hũ mà con người xích lại gần nhau hơn. Tôi thích nhìn thực khách thổi hơi nóng bay ra từ chén đậu hũ trong những ngày trời mưa, lấy hơi nóng từ chén rồi hơ lên mặt, lên cổ, vừa húp soàn soạt vừa xuýt xoa “nóng quá”. Tôi thích mấy anh thợ hồ cởi trần, lưng đen trũi, ngồi dưới bóng cây, vừa nhai nước đá rào rào vừa chửi thề túi bụi. Thích cái cách ghẹo gái bình dân, mộc mạc, thấy người đẹp đi ngang là đon đả chào mời “vô ăn tàu hũ nè em!”. Tôi cũng thích cô gái bán đậu hũ xinh xinh, đẹp như một bông sen, thoăn thoắt, khéo léo múc đậu hũ cho khách. Thích nhìn cô bỏ cái nón lá ra khỏi đầu, quạt tới quạt lui, nắm vạt áo lau mồ hôi, giở khẩu trang uống chậm rãi vài ngụm nước. Và tôi thích tôi, cứ mỗi lần nghe tiếng rao là bỏ hết công chuyện, quơ vội chiếc áo, rửa mặt, chải đầu rồi ra cổng nhìn về một hướng. Tôi yêu lắm những lúc mình ngồi ăn đậu hũ trừ cơm, rồi nghe cô gái nhỏ hơn tôi hai tuổi kêu chú này chú nọ.
Xuất phát từ dân lao động nên tôi thừa hiểu sự vất vả của những người bán hàng rong. Họ đa phần nghèo, ai khá một chút thì sắm được chiếc xe đẩy, thậm chí xe gắn máy, có tiếng rao được ghi âm sẵn. Những người này có lợi thế khi đi được nhiều nơi nhưng hình ảnh chỉ thoáng qua, chưa tạo được nhiều ấn tượng. Còn khó khăn như cô gái của xóm tôi thì phải đi bộ và gánh bằng đòn gánh, rao bằng miệng của chính mình. Tôi đã từng ba ngày không ăn đậu hũ vì cô không cho tôi số điện thoại. Đến khi người hàng xóm chạy đi tìm, báo cho cô biết mẹ cô nhập viện thì tôi mới nhận ra sự giận dỗi của mình là vô tâm và ích kỷ. Tôi không biết đất Sài Gòn còn bao nhiêu mảnh đời như thế nữa nhưng tôi tin chắc rằng phần lớn họ không thể tự làm chủ số phận của mình. Tiếng rao của họ nhiều khi thê lương và thống thiết lắm. Chừng vắng đột ngột, trong cơ thể con người như thiếu một điều gì đó lớn lao. Tôi đã trải qua cảm giác này khi nhịn đói đến xế trưa mà chưa thấy gánh hàng rong quen thuộc. Tôi đã đi tìm cô, ráo riết như sắp mất đi người bạn đường tri kỉ. Tôi thấy cô vật vã trong tay một anh xe ôm, má cô dính máu, tóc xõa xuống đường, tay nắm chặt mấy đồng bạc lẻ. Hỏi ra mới biết, cô bị hai tên ôn dịch ăn quỵt, đã vậy còn giật hết tiền. Cố giành lại, cô ngã, đầu đập xuống đường, trên tay ngoài ít tiền lẻ ra còn có cái nút áo của tên hung thần vô cảm. Tôi còn đứng đó hồi lâu, nhìn bầy kiến đen bu đặc vũng nước đường. Nhìn từng vệt bánh xe to nhỏ không đều, nhạt dần trên con đường xa thẳm.

 

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